BRAZIL
Rio de Janeiro and Beyond - Exploring Wild Brazil
Years ago, when I started daydreaming of a plan to go around the world, my mind always focused on Brazil and Rio de Janeiro (Rio) as the entry point. Something about palm trees, pristine blue ocean, and celebrating the start of an epic adventure with a fruity cocktail captivated my thoughts. Plans evolved, and instead, we started in Colombia. Brazil will still always have a place in my mind’s eye as a symbol of epic adventure though.
We spent three weeks traveling around Brazil and only scratched the surface of this huge and beautiful country. Besides the metropolis of Rio, we spent our time deep in the interior of the country, exploring charming colonial towns, the largest wetland in the world, and the largest (by volume) waterfall in South America.
Logistics
Travel: We flew into Rio de Janeiro and departed Brazil via a bus from Foz do Iguaçu. The main anchors of our trip were tours into the North and South Pantanal. Brazil is large, and we relied on a combination of domestic flights and buses to get around. Long-distance buses are actually very nice. We were able to reserve seats several days in advance via Busbud. The buses were clean, had a restroom, featured reclining seats, and made stops approximately every three hours at a rest station. The rest stations had clean restrooms and food options. We took buses to several places because it was actually quicker and more affordable than flying.
Around Town: We used Uber to get around all the major cities. It was reliable and affordable. Taxis are also readily available. Be sure to agree to a price prior to entering the vehicle. You can find approximate prices with a simple internet search, or compare them to an Uber cost. A few extra dollars here and there for convenience is worth it to us.
ATMs & Cash: We used credit cards for almost everything, but it is still smart to have some cash on hand for small purchases. We didn’t pick up cash at the airport in Rio de Janeiro, and once we were in town, we actually found it very difficult to find an ATM open after hours or on the weekend because bank lobbies lock early for security. Most banks in Brazil treat foreign debit cards as a credit card transaction, hence, it can be extremely difficult to get cash as a foreigner. If you need cash, Banco24Horas machines are common. However, I would only use one located inside a grocery store or shopping mall during the day; be aware though, that they can have high exchange fees. We also had success with Bradesco when we could find an open branch.
Safety: Brazil has a reputation for being rough in certain areas, especially in some of the larger cities. We had absolutely no problems while out and about. The key is to stay alert and aware of your surroundings, just like in other major global cities. Remember to stick to well-populated, main avenues, and keep valuables like phones and jewelry completely tucked away while walking. Plan out your destinations and transit in advance so you aren't standing on a street corner staring at your phone.
Rio de Janeiro
The natural landscape in Rio is stunning. From golden sand and sparkling blue water to huge rock formations, it is truly unique. While it is a massive cultural icon and major economic hub, it is actually Brazil's second-largest city, with a population of nearly 6.7 million people in the city proper. If you don’t plan right, its size can quickly become overwhelming to navigate.
We spent five days in Rio and were able to see several iconic locations alongside some fun beach days. I highly recommend checking the weather pattern for your week and scheduling a couple of "anchor activities" early, since they book out quickly, and then arranging the rest of your itinerary around those bookings. Our favorite Rio experiences are listed below; you can read about them in detail in our Rio de Janeiro blog.
Ipanema Beach has pristine blue water, golden sand, and striking mountains as a backdrop.
Top Rio Experiences -
Copacabana and Ipanema Beach: These world-famous, side-by-side beaches are famous for their iconic wave-patterned boardwalks and stunning coastal scenery. We absolutely loved spending a relaxed and affordable day there renting chairs and ordering fresh drinks right on the sand.
Sugarloaf Mountain: To reach the top of this massive peak that overlooks the entire coastline, you take a multi-stage cable car system. I highly recommend booking a late afternoon entry time so you can experience both the gorgeous golden hour and the city lights after dark.
Christ the Redeemer: Standing atop Corcovado Mountain, this colossal, 98-foot-tall Art Deco statue is officially recognized as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Ride the historic cog railway to the top to not only find the statue, but also amazing 360 degree views over the city.
Churrasco (Brazilian Steakhouse): Barbecue is an artform in Brazil, and churrasco is a traditional dining experience that features an endless table-side rotation of perfectly grilled meats. Make sure you go hungry; the food never stops!
Drink a Caipirinha: Made with cachaça, sugar, and fresh lime, this refreshing cocktail is Brazil’s national drink. Pace yourself because they taste light and sweet while being deceptively strong.
The Royal Portuguese Reading Room: Tucked away downtown, this stunningly ornate historic library houses the largest collection of Portuguese literature outside of Portugal. Stepping inside is breathtaking, as stacks of books soar three stories high in intricately carved wooden book stacks, teal walls, and stained glass ceilings.
The Selarón Steps (Escadaria Selarón): This vibrant public staircase connecting Lapa to Santa Teresa was transformed by a local artist using thousands of mosaic tiles to bring beauty to his home and surrounding neighborhood. It is incredibly fun to climb the steps while spotting unique artwork donated by travelers from all over the world.
Take a Walk in Centro: A walking tour through Rio's historic downtown cultural hub offers a fascinating contrast to the beach neighborhoods, showcasing a unique landscape where grand classical architecture stands right next to striking modern structures.
Ouro Preto
After spending several days in busy Rio, it was nice to slow down our pace in Ouro Preto, a charming and well-preserved colonial town tucked into the soapstone mountains of Brazil's Minas Gerais region. Founded in 1711, the town—whose name means "black gold"—became the epicenter of the 18th century’s longest and largest gold rush. Over 800 metric tons of gold were extracted from these mountains and ultimately shipped to Europe via the port of Rio de Janeiro. This massive influx of wealth shifted the focus of Portuguese colonial trade away from the sugarcane-producing Northeast to the Southeast, which flourished with gold.
Magnificent churches dot the horizon, while steep cobblestone streets wind through the town in every direction.
Enslaved people and indigenous groups carved away the local mountains from the inside to enrich the Portuguese crown. Because of this monumental wealth, a bustling city grew that today acts as a flawless time capsule of Baroque and Rococo architecture.
The grandest symbols of the colonial era are the town's historic churches, brought to life by Brazil's most celebrated colonial architect and artist—Aleijadinho. While he didn't design all of them independently, his genius is stamped all over our favorite churches listed below. All three interiors can be visited with a combined pass bought at Igreja de São Francisco de Assis.
Igreja da Venerável Ordem Terceira de Nossa Senhora das Mercês e Perdões
Igreja da Venerável Ordem Terceira de Nossa Senhora das Mercês e Perdões - A striking church where Aleijadinho was brought in to redesign the main chapel and altar, sculpting beautiful interior wood statues.
Paróquia e Santuário de Nossa Senhora da Conceição
Paróquia e Santuário de Nossa Senhora da Conceição - Actually designed and built by Aleijadinho’s father (Manuel Francisco Lisboa), this church serves as the legendary artist's final resting place and houses a museum dedicated entirely to his life's work.
Igreja de São Francisco de Assis
Igreja de São Francisco de Assis - Widely considered Aleijadinho’s ultimate architectural masterpiece, for which he drafted the entire design and personally carved the stunning soapstone facade.
It was fascinating to compare these structures to the Baroque churches we saw in Europe. Instead of marble, these churches were crafted from local soapstone, and the paintings reflect the people and natural surroundings.
A prime example is the Igreja de São Francisco de Assisi, where Aleijadinho personally carved the ornate soapstone front piece on the facade, depicting Saint Francis receiving the stigmata. Inside, the artwork moves away from European norms. The intricate woodwork is covered in gold, and if you look up at the nave ceiling, you will see a massive, colorful painting by Master Ataíde. He painted the Virgin Mary and the surrounding musical angels with distinct Afro-Brazilian features, beautifully reflecting the colors, vegetation, and diverse people native to Brazil.
Do Not Miss
Comida a Quilo - Brazilian buffets are a huge deal in southern Brazil! Whether at a bus station or a rustic estancia, you'll find amazing spreads of fresh salads, fruits, and perfectly cooked meats. It's a "pay-by-weight" system - fill your plate, weigh it, and pay only for what you take. We loved this setup because it allowed us to control our portions and sample a variety of unique regional dishes.
The Pantanal
While most people automatically picture the Amazon rainforest when they think of South American wilderness, the Pantanal captured my attention years ago after watching a nature show. I was mesmerized by scenes of highly social giant river otters playing in a river winding through the wetlands, contrasted immediately against the power of a jaguar ambushing a caiman and hauling it right out of the water. Seeing such an incredible concentration of wildlife in one place made me realize we had to go see this unique environment for ourselves.
For its size, the Pantanal holds the highest concentration of biodiversity in South America and serves as a vital corridor for animal migration and habitat continuity.
The Pantanal is the largest freshwater tropical wetland in the world. Located within the upper Paraguay River basin, it sits in the heart of South America, bordered by the Andes Mountains, the Amazon rainforest, and regional dry forests. The majority of the Pantanal is within Brazil (80%), with the remainder extending into Bolivia and Paraguay. The dry season lasts from July through October, when massive concentrations of wildlife gather around remaining watering holes, offering spectacular viewing opportunities. During the rainy season, the landscape transforms into a vast, flooded grassland savanna. The massive ecosystem acts as a natural sponge, regulating water flow to ensure down-river cities are protected from catastrophic flooding.
We spent eight days in the Pantanal, spreading our time between both the North and South to ensure we experienced the unique landscapes and wildlife of each region. Because of the vastness and the challenges of getting deep into the wetlands (both in the north and south) we stayed at lodges that included full board and guided excursions, which featured game drives, boat safaris, and walking safaris.
North Pantanal
The Northern Pantanal is renowned for its dense jaguar population, particularly along the Cuiabá River system and its surrounding forests. We took a guided tour that included several safari drives/walks through the forest, and then we had a full day boat ride from Porto Jofre that got us up close with jaguars. Be mindful when booking tours in the Pantanal, although there can be jaguar sightings throughout the region (every brochure or website will show a jaguar) a boat tour out of Porto Jofre provides the greatest chance to see jaguars consistently.
This beautiful jaguar named Medrosa was the first jaguar we saw during the tour. She sat magestically in a tree that spanned over the river below. She appeared so confident, and did not care that we were in her domain.
This handsome guy is named Pantaneiro (Madrosa's cub). At one point he came out of the reeds and sat about 12 feet away from our boat. He stoped and looked at Ava very intensely for 30 plus seconds, I didn't know if he wanted to eat her or was intrigued by her. He then stared directly into my eyes, it will forever be one of my favorite memories.
During our land and river safaris we saw countless animals and birds. Some of our favorites included:
Jaguars
Ocelots
Tapirs
Coatis
Caimans
Toucans
The Northern Pantanal is known for the highest density and reliable sightings for jaguars in the world. Besides jaguars there are so many unique animals and countless birds to see.
South Pantanal
We enjoyed seeing the contrast of the Southern Pantanal versus the north. The south had wide-open savannas and grasslands intermixed with large fazendas (ranches). As we went on game drives, we often saw cowboys with their herds of cattle, which reflect the deep cultural influence of the region. Even though it was the same season, because we were several hundred miles further south, different trees were in bloom— many of which had already finished blossoming in the north. Once again, life comes alive along the riverbanks
Although we didn't see as many large animals in the South, we saw large numbers of caiman, capybara, and birds. I really enjoyed seeing how local ranchers integrated their livestock practices with the local environment.
Bonito
We had a driver transfer us from the South Pantanal to Bonito, and I immediately loved the contrast in scenery. Located on a large limestone plain south of the Pantanal, Bonito is a charming town surrounded by rolling green hills, deep red soil, and pastures full of cattle. Millions of years ago, an inland sea covered the area; the remaining limestone has since eroded into pockets, creating huge sinkholes, brilliant blue-teal rivers, and underground lakes. The town offers the perfect balance of adventure activities, wildlife spotting, and a vibrant food scene. Bonito has a strong ecotourism system set up, making it easy to spend three days here.
Gruta do Lago Azul has some of the brightest pristine blue water I have ever seen!
On our first morning, we toured the Gruta do Lago Azul, a huge limestone cave that collapsed millions of years ago. We walked down 300 steps to find the most brilliant blue water at the base of the cave. Later that afternoon, we spent several hours at Estância Mimosa, a local ranch committed to sustainable ranching practices. We had an amazing buffet lunch made with ingredients grown in their own garden, and then hiked through the extensive grounds to see a series of waterfalls. In the Mato Grosso do Sul region of Brazil, it is truly refreshing to see how they have merged ranching with the preservation of the local ecosystem.
We hiked to several waterfalls, and even jumped in one to cool off!
The next day, we once again visited a farm — Recanto Ecológico Rio da Prata — to snorkel down the Olho d'Água and Prata rivers. One of the coolest experiences was hiking through the forest to the entry point of the snorkel tour. We saw the actual headwaters where the stream bubbled out of the Earth to form the origin of the river. Because the area sits over a limestone plain, the water filtering up from the aquifer comes through limestone sand, leaving the river system with crystal-clear water and a limestone-colored bottom. The fish in the river are unafraid and just swim alongside you as you drift down the stream.
After our snorkel trip, we had an amazing farm buffet and then drove to the Buraco das Araras Private Natural Heritage Reserve to see a massive sinkhole measuring 500 meters in circumference and 100 meters deep. Carved beautifully out of deep red sandstone, the massive crater has become home to dozens of vibrant red-and-green macaws. Watching these magnificent birds soar effortlessly against the backdrop of the towering canyon walls was the ultimate finale to our time in Bonito.
Red macaws are monogamous birds, and are hardly seem without their partner.
Iguazu Falls
To wrap up our Brazilian adventure, we had to visit one of the most iconic places in all of South America. Spanning roughly 2.7 kilometers (1.7 miles) across, Iguazu Falls is considered the largest waterfall system in the world. The falls cross the Iguazu River, which creates the natural border between Brazil and Argentina.
We took a domestic flight from Campo Grande into Foz de Iguacu airport. The Brazilian side of the falls is a quick drive from the airport or main city of Foz do Iguaçu, and can easily be visited on your own. We could not check into our AirBnB so we went directly from the airport to the visitors center, and stored our bags for around $12 dollars total.
From the visitor center entry, a park bus takes you to various designated stops. We chose to take the Panoramic Trail, which is about a 1.5 kilometer (1 mile) hike along the rim of the river canyon. It provides gorgeous views and eventually brings you right to the base of the Devil’s Throat, where you can walk out onto a viewing boardwalk. Be prepared to get absolutely drenched by the massive wall of mist! We spent about 3-4 hours in the park, which was plenty of time to walk the trail, take tons of pictures, stop for snacks, and let our clothes dry out.
The final viewing platform takes you right under the Devil's Throat and above the second drop of the falls.
We were so impressed by the Brazilian side of the falls that we hesitated to make the logistical effort to get to the Argentine side. A guided tour with transportation was simply more than we wanted to spend for a group of four. My research showed that the most affordable DIY route involved taking a bus or Uber from Foz do Iguaçu to Brazilian immigration (asking the driver to wait), driving to check into Argentine immigration, and then taking a separate bus to Puerto Iguazú just to catch another bus to the park. While entirely doable, the multiple bus tickets for four people quickly add up, and we had to factor in the value of our time.
Instead, I hired a private driver through GetTransfer.com on the morning of our trip. Within minutes, I had several quotes to choose from. In the end, it only cost about $40 to $50 more overall, and we had a dedicated driver who navigated immigration, waited for us outside the park, and dropped us right back at our AirBnB .
It was entirely worth it! The Argentine side was breathtaking from the moment we arrived at the first viewing platform. Its elaborate upper and lower boardwalk systems lead you right to the edge of the rushing water, over the river, and to stunning viewpoints looking back at the Brazilian side. The park felt less crowded and very immersive, letting us truly feel surrounded by nature. We all agreed that we are incredibly glad we experienced both perspectives of the falls.
The boardwalk systems that took us directly over the river were fun to navigate. It was interesting to see the huge river system moving quickly (but steady) right before it plunged over the waterfall turbulently.
Do Not Miss
Itaipu Dam - On the border of Brazil and Paraguay is one of the world's largest hydroelectric power plants. It makes for an interesting half-day tour from Foz do Iguaçu for anyone interested in massive infrastructure and engineering. This facility produces clean electricity that supplies 10–15% of the total power consumed by Brazil and roughly 85–90% of Paraguay’s entire demand.
Our Greatest Takeaway
Brazil is a place forever etched in my mind by its stark, breathtaking natural beauty. Its vastness is humbling, holding everything from sun-drenched coastlines and dense jungles to quiet rolling farmlands and sweeping wetlands carved by ancient rivers. Beyond the landscapes, what truly stayed with me is how deeply Brazil values these wild spaces, fostering a way of travel that allows for quiet, intimate encounters with nature. Witnessing wild jaguars in the Northern Pantanal will forever remain one of my core memories in life. There is a deep comfort in knowing their habitat is protected—and a beautiful reassurance in seeing how preserving this wilderness directly sustains the local communities who call it home.
In the beginning, the language barrier meant it took us a little longer to break the ice with locals. Yet, pushing past those quiet, initial hurdles made the connections we did form feel so much more meaningful. I especially cherish the memory of our female guide in the Northern Pantanal. As a biologist, her deep, scientific connection to nature stood in fascinating contrast to the perspective of the middle-aged man who guided us through the south, who had learned about the environment growing up as a boy, taught by the elders of his community. While both taught us intimately about the environment and wildlife, they did so through completely different lenses, giving us a much richer understanding of the country and their own life stories.
This journey has only scratched the surface of such a massive country. When we return to Brazil one day, we would love to journey north along the Amazon River basin, eager to see how its rhythm, people, and landscapes contrast with the south we came to appreciate so deeply.
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