RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL
Updated: Sep 26
Stunning Landscapes and Coastal Energy
If I’m being a little honest, the first day and a half that we arrived in Rio, I was underwhelmed. The rock formations were beautiful, but the city was blanketed with a thick marine layer. The first morning I woke up and saw the sun over the ocean and distant rocks, I was like WOW this is the Rio that you see in pictures. Reminds me that you need to have some of those overcast days, to appreciate when the sun comes out again.
The natural landscape in Rio is stunning. From golden sand and sparkling blue water, to huge rock formations, it is truly unique. While it is a massive cultural icon and major economic hub, it is actually Brazil's second-largest city, with a population of nearly 6.7 million people in the city proper. If you don’t plan right, its size can quickly become overwhelming to navigate.
We spent five days in Rio and were able to see several iconic locations alongside some fun beach days. I highly recommend checking the weather pattern for your week and scheduling a couple of "anchor activities" early, since they book out quickly, and then arranging the rest of your itinerary around those bookings. Below are some of our favorite experiences in Rio.
Logistics
Hotel Location: Rio is a massive city, and traffic means it can easily take an hour or more to get from one side to the other. Choose where you stay wisely! We splurged a bit and stayed right on the water in Arpoador, the small neighborhood nestled right between Copacabana and Ipanema. While driving across town to various sights can wear you down, I always appreciated coming "home" at the end of the day to look out at the ocean from our patio.
Getting Around: We used Uber for everything. It was quick, affordable, and highly reliable. I loved the peace of mind that comes with upfront pricing in the app and having it automatically charged to my credit card.
ATMs & Cash: We used credit cards for almost everything, but it is still smart to have some cash on hand for small beach purchases. We didn’t pick up cash at the airport, and once we were in town, we actually found it very difficult to find an ATM open after hours or on the weekend because bank lobbies lock early for security. Most banks in Brazil treat foreign debit cards as a credit card transaction, hence, it can be extremely difficult to get cash as a foreigner. If you need cash, Banco24Horas machines are common, however, I would only use one located inside a grocery store or shopping mall during the day, be aware though they can have exchange fees. We also had success with Bradesco when we could find an open branch.
Safety: Rio has a reputation for being rough in certain areas, but we had absolutely no problems while out and about. The key is to stay alert and aware of your surroundings, just like in any major global city. Remember to stick to well-populated, main avenues, and keep valuables like phones and jewelry completely tucked away while walking. Plan out your destinations and transit in advance so you aren't standing on a street corner staring at your phone. I also think walking with a purpose, looking people in the eye, and smiling or saying "good morning or good day" goes a long way of showing your confidence.
Copacabana and Ipanema Beach
When the sun comes out, it feels like everyone heads to the beach. Both of these locations have a beautiful, iconic boardwalk you can walk along. On Sundays, the beachfront avenues (like Avenida Atlântica) are completely closed down to car traffic, and you’ll see runners, cyclists, and families walking and enjoying the space.
We appreciated renting a beach umbrella and two chairs directly from one of the beachside stands, we paid about $12 US dollars for the entire day. At the same spot, we could get caipirinhas and sodas brought right to our chairs for a very reasonable price. At the end of the day, we paid with a credit card, making it very convenient not to have to carry cash to the beach.
The boardwalks of both Copacabana and Ipanema Beach are lined with beautiful, distinct modernist cobblestone patterns. It is easy to find an umbrella and chairs to rent at either beach.
Sugarloaf Mountain
Taking the cable car up to Sugarloaf Mountain provides an excellent panoramic view across the entire city. There are several restaurants, cafés, and souvenir shops on both points of the mountain. I highly recommend that you book your ticket several days in advance so you can secure the best time slot to enter. We chose the 3 to 4 o’clock entry window. We arrived at the intermediate station, Morro da Urca, around 4:30 and spent half an hour taking pictures. Then, we headed up to the very top of Sugarloaf Mountain and were able to catch the beautiful golden hour before sunset. After dark, it is just as stunning up there with all the twinkling lights of the surrounding city. We easily spent about three hours enjoying the experience.
The views from Sugarloaf mountain are amazing, and look out over all of the Rio coastline.
Christ the Redeemer
Majestically standing 98 feet tall (30 meters), Christ the Redeemer faces east and appears to protect all of Rio de Janeiro below. Completed in 1931, the massive Art Deco structure is made of reinforced concrete and covered with a delicate web of soapstone mosaic tiles. It is officially recognized as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. This is another location that I would book several days in advance. Time slots are very strict and depart every 20 minutes. We had to check in 40 minutes prior to our scheduled departure time for the train. You can also reserve a van/bus to the top, but we wanted to take the historic cog railway. There is no getting around it, the viewing area at the top is always crowded, but the views are entirely worth it!
Some of the best views over all of Rio can be seen at the base of the Chirst the Redeemer statue.
Churrasco (Brazilian Steakhouse)
Twenty years ago, Joel came to Rio by himself for work. He constantly raved about a traditional Brazilian steakhouse experience he had back then, so on this trip, he made it his mission to find that exact same location. The original place he ate at was called Porcão, and though that classic spot has since closed, the spectacular waterfront venue has been completely reimagined as Assador.
Going to an authentic churrascaria is a bit of a splurge, but it is an absolute must-try experience. They bring dozens of perfectly grilled cuts of meat right to your table, alongside a high-end salad cart. Whenever we go to these places at home, I always tell Joel that this isn't a meal you can just spring on me last minute—you truly want an empty stomach before going because the food never stops! My absolute favorites were the parmesan-crusted filet mignon and the classic picanha cuts.
We found the same restaurant location that Joel had ate at years ago, we had a beautiful view of Sugarloaf Mountain during dinner. The tableside service is amazing during a traditional churrasco dinner.
Drink a Caipirinha or Limonada Suíça
While in Brazil, you absolutely have to try their national drink, the caipirinha. It is a delicious cocktail made from cachaça (a local sugarcane alcohol), muddled sugar, and fresh limes.
Beware and pace yourself—they taste light and sweet, but they are super strong! You can get them just about anywhere, but we especially enjoyed sipping one at a lively boardwalk kiosk on Copacabana Beach, right next to the iconic wave-patterned sidewalk and overlooking the crashing waves. Limonada Suíça is a great non-alcoholic alternative if you want something light and cold.
Fun Fact
Portuguese explorers arrived at Guanabara Bay on January 1, 1502. They confused the huge ocean bay for the mouth of a river, and thus named the location by the water Rio de Janeiro or "River of January."
The Royal Portuguese Reading Room
Tucked away on a modest street in Rio's downtown Centro district, you will find the breathtaking Real Gabinete Português de Leitura. The institution was originally founded in 1837 by a group of 43 Portuguese immigrants looking to bring their cultural heritage to the city.
Outside, the stunning limestone facade is built in the Neo-Manueline architectural style, similar to historic monuments you would see in Lisbon and across Portugal. Inside, the structure is absolutely magnificent, adorned with dark brown, gilded woodwork and deep teal walls. The massive stacks of books rise three stories high, housing the largest collection of Portuguese literature outside of Portugal, all crowned by an iron skylight with a beautiful stained-glass window.
The reading room is free to enter, just be aware that it is popular and the line can be long outside. Give yourself enough time prior to closing.
The Selarón Steps (Escadaria Selarón)
Starting in 1990, Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón wanted to bring color and beauty to the dilapidated steps right outside his front door. What began as a simple neighborhood project evolved into an obsession, eventually covering over 215 steps with thousands of vibrant mosaic tiles. As the project gained international fame, travelers began donating large, unique tiles with custom imagery from all around the globe. Today, the steps serve as a bustling, colorful artery connecting the vibrant neighborhood of Lapa to the hilltop streets of Santa Teresa. It is incredibly fun to walk up the staircase, spot art representing different cultures from the entire world, and see how one man’s dedicated attempt to gift beauty to his neighbors became one of Rio's most iconic landmarks.
The Selarón Steps are a fun burst of color within the city. Take time to look at some of the individual tiles that were shared with the artist from various places around the world.
Take a Walk in Centro
We spent a morning doing errands and sightseeing in the historic downtown Centro district. It offers a wonderful contrast to the beach neighborhoods, showcasing the many diverse layers of the city. We loved seeing pockets of beautiful classical architecture, such as the grand Municipal Theater of Rio, right alongside the modern, pyramid-shaped Rio de Janeiro Cathedral, and the historic Carioca Aqueduct (Arcos da Lapa).
Much of Rio's architecture features light-colored concrete buildings from the mid-20th century. This is because a good portion of the city's historic structures were demolished to accommodate a massive population boom. I appreciated seeing the various architectural periods to observe how the city evolved over time.
Final Thoughts
Five days was the perfect amount of time for us. While I really enjoyed the city, after a certain point, I always crave the slower, more easygoing pace of a smaller town. Most of our mornings were spent helping the kids with their schoolwork, so our afternoon itinerary stayed pretty relaxed. If we had more time, I would’ve loved to explore some of Rio's modern art museums that feature incredibly cool architecture, including the futuristic Museum of Tomorrow or Oscar Niemeyer's UFO-shaped Niterói Contemporary Art Museum across the bay. Additionally, there are some great outdoor treks available; I think hiking the famous Two Brothers peak would have been a fantastic, free alternative for panoramic views if we hadn't been able to go up Sugarloaf.
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