BOLIVIA
Uncovering Bolivia- Landscapes, Cholitas, and a Sensory Explosion
From day one, Bolivia captivated me with its dramatic landscapes, vibrant architecture, and profoundly warm people. It is the kind of country where hospitality feels genuine and effortless—where you are invited in to learn about local culture and history, rather than treated as an outsider.
Everywhere you turn, centuries-old traditions are woven directly into daily life, deeply connected to the very spirit of the country. From seeing cholitas proudly dressed in their traditional layered skirts and bowler hats, to walking around bustling street markets, Bolivia is a complete sensory explosion.
While centuries of Spanish colonization and a rigid caste system left a legacy of deep-seated social divides, indigenous culture didn't just survive; it endured with remarkable strength. Today, that vibrant, independent spirit is what makes exploring Bolivia's highlands and valleys so deeply compelling.
Logistics
Travel: We flew into El Alto International Airport, which serves as the main international gateway for La Paz. The anchor of our trip was a G Adventures tour that started in La Paz and took us to Sucre, Potosí, and the Salt Flats. Between these locations, we used a combination of domestic flights, tour buses, and overnight buses. To drive into the Salt Flats, you absolutely need a 4x4 vehicle and a guide. Because of the sheer remoteness of the region, we highly appreciated having an experienced driver who knew how to navigate the wild landscape and high mountain passes.
Altitude: Be aware that La Paz, the Andean Plain, and the Salt Flats all sit well over 12,000 feet, and you will feel the effects of the altitude almost instantly. In fact, landing at El Alto puts you right at 13,325 feet. If your doctor prescribes altitude sickness pills, I highly recommend taking them the day before you arrive. The kids and I failed to take our medication prior to landing, and we spent our entire first day feeling incredibly sluggish and battling intense headaches.
Around Town: In the larger cities like La Paz and Sucre, we relied on the inDrive app to get around. It is similar to Uber because it connects you with a verified driver, but it uses a bidding system where you agree on a price in advance and pay in cash upon completion. We found that Uber was not nearly as prevalent or reliable. Additionally, we used local minibuses—where you simply hop on and pay a minimal flat fee—but our favorite form of transportation was Mi Teleférico, the cable car system in La Paz that connects the city’s major hubs. The enclosed ski-gondola style cabins offer absolutely breathtaking views of the city below.
ATMs & Cash: We used credit cards occasionally at pharmacies or sit-down restaurants, but we primarily relied on Bolivianos (cash). Most local businesses strongly prefer cash, so if you are running low, it is best to ask if they accept cards before making a purchase or sitting down to eat. In the major cities, finding ATMs was very easy. Major national banks like Banco Mercantil Santa Cruz (BMSC) and Banco Nacional de Bolivia (BNB) did not charge local operator fees for foreign cards, though you should still check for fees from your bank back home.
Safety: We felt completely safe throughout our entire time in Bolivia. The locals were incredibly friendly, welcoming, and eager to strike up a conversation. As with any major global city, just remember to stay aware of your surroundings in the big cities like La Paz. At night, stick to well-populated, main avenues, and keep valuables like smartphones and jewelry entirely tucked away while walking.
La Paz
Bolivia’s administrative capital, sits at nearly 13,000 feet in a bowl within the Andean Altiplano. Originally, the Spanish founded the city on the high plains of Laja, but they quickly decided to move it down into the valley floor to protect it from the harsh altiplano winds and elements. Hundreds of natural springs ran through the valley, making it an ideal location for the Spanish to develop the city as a strategic transit hub between the silver mines of Potosí and the historic city of Cusco.
The cable cars are an affordable and fun way to see the dramatic skyline of La Paz while navigating the city. Simply go to the station and tell the attendant your destination. They will calculate the exact fare and issue your transfer tickets.
When we arrived in La Paz at night, thousands of sparkling lights clung to the steep hillsides. Waking up the next morning, we were completely in awe of the colorful developments built right into the cliffs. La Paz is a unique mix of square brick homes perched precariously along the hills alongside beautiful historic architecture like the Basilica of San Francisco. Because of the city's intense terrain, a state-of-the-art cable car system was installed in 2014 to connect key urban areas. We loved riding the gondolas to look down on the bustling city activity below.
The Witches' Market is a vibrant area in La Paz to find affordable souvenirs, see stalls of traditional herbs and medicines, and people-watch.
The Basilica of San Francisco, within the plaza of the same name, is a striking example of Andean Baroque architecture—a style that beautifully merges traditional European design with indigenous motifs and details.
While there are plenty of historic squares and churches to visit, the real charm of the city is just wandering the streets. The Witches' Market is full of colorful blankets, crafts, herbs, and spiritual items used by the locals. For a fun excursion, we took the cable car up to El Alto—the large, bustling city on the plain above La Paz—getting off at the 16 de Julio station. From there, we did a self-guided walking tour to see Freddy Mamani’s colorful Cholets. This vibrant Neo-Andean style of architecture beautifully reflects the colorful textiles and artwork of the Andes. These striking buildings typically feature commercial spaces on the first floor, a grand dance hall on the second floor, apartments on the upper levels, and a lavish penthouse for the owner on top. Wandering past them offered a fantastic window into modern Bolivian life.
Spotting the vibrant cholets in El Alto is very easy, as they are spread throughout the city. You will find an especially high concentration of them lining major thoroughfares like Avenue 16 de Julio and Avenue Adrián Castillo.
Do Not Miss
Moon Valley (Valle de la Luna)- An easy half-day excursion, Moon Valley is a fantastic way to experience the dramatic, eroded geology that shapes the iconic cliffsides surrounding La Paz. The park showcases a strange, labyrinthine landscape of towering clay spires and deep canyons that look completely otherworldly. Best of all, you can easily visit DIY by hopping on the cable cars from central La Paz down to the southern zone, followed by a quick taxi ride directly to the park entrance.
Sucre
From La Paz we took a quick domestic flight to Sucre. Located east of the Altiplano plateau, in a lower highland valley of the Andes Mountains, Sucre enjoys a spring-like climate year-round. Don’t be fooled though, as the city still sits at over 9,100 feet above sea level.
Throughout Sucre's historic center, the majority of the buildings are painted a crisp white and topped with classic red-tiled roofs. Climbing up to a rooftop restaurant or a colonial bell tower is the absolute best way to take in the panoramic views.
The constitutional capital of Bolivia, Sucre pleasantly charms with white-painted colonial buildings and red-tiled roofs. Numerous churches, government buildings, cafes, and markets line the urban grid, making it a beautiful place to just stroll. It was founded by the Spanish in 1538 and eventually became the epicenter of the independence movement when Bolivia signed its declaration in 1825.
We loved spending our days strolling through the mild, sun-kissed streets before winding down with sunset cocktails. Terraza 625 has fun drink and appetizer options for all ages.
Originally known as La Plata, the city was later renamed in honor of General Antonio José de Sucre, who alongside Simón Bolívar (often referred to as the great liberator) successfully led the revolutionary forces to defeat the Spanish crown and secure continental freedom. While the historic center beautifully preserves this revolutionary legacy, the wonders of the region stretch back millions of years before human history.
To fully appreciate Sucre's stunning architecture, our favorite vantage points were the historic Church of San Felipe Neri, the Mirador de la Mansarda, and Café Mirador San Miguel.
Beyond the old town grid, we had an amazing time visiting the Parque Cretácico dinosaur museum to marvel at the massive, near-vertical limestone wall of Cal Orck'o. This site has over 12,000 footprints of eight different species of dinosaurs, including a Titanosaur, armored Ankylosauruses, and a young Tyrannosaurus-like predator. It is one of the most important paleontological discoveries in the world because it is an invaluable example of Cretaceous period social behavior and herd movement.
At Parque Cretácico, the dinosaur footprints can be seen tracking across the stone in long, distinct pathways. This massive limestone wall was once a flat, horizontal lakebed that over millennia was pushed completely upright by tectonic movement.
Potosí
We spent one day in Potosí as we transited between Sucre and the Salt Flats, and I really didn’t know much about the city beforehand. After doing some research and walking around, I was wowed by the history and enduring resiliency of this place.
Potosí was the primary economic engine of the Spanish crown during the colonial era. Cerro Rico (Rich Mountain), which looms just south of the city, held the single largest silver deposit ever discovered in the world. Over 60% of the world’s silver coinage came out of the Potosí mines between 1545 and 1810, creating a massive influx of wealth that fueled a globally interconnected economy.
For nearly 500 years, Cerro Rico has been carved up internally. Today, the mountain’s interior is a fragile honeycomb of thousands of vertical and horizontal shafts.
We toured one of the active mines with a former miner, and it was eye-opening to hear about the conditions hundreds of years ago while seeing the current operations firsthand. Historians estimate that up to 8 million indigenous and African men perished while mining for the Spanish crown due to exhaustion, tunnel collapses, mercury poisoning, and other industrial accidents. Although conditions today are better, the men who work the mines still face a lower life expectancy because of the vicious toll the environment takes on their bodies—especially their lungs. Mining is a deep-rooted part of the local society, and the reality is that the mines remain the biggest employer for hundreds of miles; without them, there simply wouldn't be enough jobs.
Beyond the mining itself, we witnessed the refining process. I had always thought precious metals came in solid veins, but in reality, much of the metal is intermixed with the rock in sizes ranging from fine sand to tiny pebbles. It must be ground, sifted, and separated—backbreakingly hard work even today. It made me truly reflect on the human toll behind the jewelry I wear and the coins in my pocket.
Climbing to the roof of the Church of San Francisco offers a spectacular view across the city of Potosí. From this vantage point, you can closely examine the striking rooftop architecture that forms the domes along the church's nave and side chapels.
The historic center of Potosí features beautiful pieces of architecture—churches, the mint, and grand squares that echo back to the height of the colonial era. I particularly enjoyed walking through the city one morning around 8:00 AM as the young children were being rushed to school. Looking at the little boys, I thought about how innocent life is for them right now. It is sobering to realize that in 8 to 10 years, many of those same boys may have to start working in the mines because it represents their only viable career opportunity.
The Mint, which operated for over 400 years, was the most heavily fortified structure in Potosí. Its massive, one-meter-thick walls housed the intricate operations of making, storing, and ultimately distributing the silver coins that would eventually be used throughout the world.
I am incredibly thankful for this brief stopover in Potosí. It thoroughly opened my mind about historic and present-day mining, and how Bolivia was the economic engine of the Spanish colonial empire
Potosí to Uyuni
We traveled by minibus from Potosí to Uyuni, a journey that quickly shifts from city life into the unknown. As the miles passed, the landscape grew increasingly desolate, stripping away signs of human habitation and leaving us surrounded by raw, dramatic nature. Yet, the mountains truly come alive on the 4-hour drive. They appear painted with vibrant colors resulting from varying mineral deposits, and unique textures formed by the high-altitude plant life. The deeper you venture into these high peaks, the farther away you feel from civilization. By the time you finally arrive in Uyuni, it feels like a dusty frontier town straight out of an old movie.
The deep red and orange mountains contrast so vividly with the bright blue sky.
The Salt Flats
Entering the salt flats, we instantly felt as though we had been transported to a completely new world, where miles and miles of brilliant white filled the horizon. The mountains in the distance looked remarkably small in contrast to the never-ending plains of pristine salt. Driving along the flats felt truly magical—like being in a place unlike anywhere else on Earth. We thoroughly enjoyed taking perspective-bending pictures; the horizon stretches so far into the distance that you feel as though you can almost see the literal curvature of the Earth.
Rising dramatically like a rocky oasis from the blinding white expanse of the salt flats, Isla Incahuasi is covered in thousands of ancient, giant cardón cacti that can tower up to ten meters high.
This incredible landscape was created tens of thousands of years ago when massive prehistoric lakes slowly dried up, leaving behind a thick crust of salt. Because we visited during the dry season, we were able to drive all the way to an "island" in the center of the flats—a rocky promontory peaking out of the white crust. These unusual islands are actually the tops of ancient volcanoes that got trapped and buried under the salt when the lakes disappeared. On the islands giant cacti shoot up toward the sky, providing a stark and beautiful contrast against the surrounding white. Our day ended watching the sunset over the distant mountains, casting a soft pink and yellow glow across the endless salt.
At sunset the salt flats become a glowing sea of pink and yellow tones.
Do Not Miss
Uyuni Train Graveyard - Located on the outskirts of town, the park is a collection of dozens of British-built steam locomotives abandoned in the 1940s after the regional mining boom collapsed. Over the decades, the trains have eroded into iron skeletons because of the harsh salt environment. It serves as a fun, open-air playground where you can climb and sit on the rusted industrial equipment before heading out into the vast salt flats.
Sud Lípez Region
We continued our journey into the Sud Lípez region just south of the salt flats. This unique corner of the world is shaped by intense, dramatic landscapes, including windswept deserts and towering Andean peaks. We made our way through a series of iconic locations, including the Siloli Desert, which is famous for its wind-carved rock formations like the Árbol de Piedra (Stone Tree). The absolute highlight of the day was coming upon Laguna Colorada (Red Lagoon) and standing face-to-face with hundreds of vibrant pink flamingos wading along its dreamy, crimson shoreline.
Driving across the high Andean plain, you will encounter spectacular, wind-sculpted rock formations and volcano shaped mountains rising dramatically out of the barren desert landscape. Hidden among these massive stone structures, you might spot a colony of southern viscachas—the famous fluffy "Andean rabbits."
The lagoons in this part of Bolivia are so vibrant, and everywhere on the horizon mountains pierce the blue sky.
The next morning, we traveled through the Salvador Dalí Desert toward Laguna Verde (Green Lagoon). At one point, as we passed bubbling mud pots and steaming geysers, we reached our highest ascent at over 16,000 feet. In moments like those, you truly feel entirely removed from the rest of civilization.
Around every bend of the gravel-worn road was another dramatic piece of scenery. The turquoise Laguna Verde was the highlight, though. During our lunch break, we even stopped to soak in a thermal bath bubbling naturally out of the earth.
However, traveling through such an unforgiving environment meant that not everything was as picture-perfect as it might appear on social media. Our SUV broke down three times in the remote desert and mountain passes. Fortunately, our driver and Joel combined their clever ideas to fix an electrical problem and get the engine running again. It was a sobering reminder of just how isolated we actually were.
Even when we broke down, we found the prettiest valley with a little stream flowing through it.
To explore these remote reaches of the planet, we booked a multi-day expedition through G Adventures and stayed in very basic, rustic accommodations along the route. Navigating this trackless, high-altitude wilderness can be dangerous, which made us realize just how essential it is to have an experienced local guide who knows how to survive and handle mechanical emergencies in such a desolate part of the world.
Tiwanaku
Located about one and a half hours west of La Paz, the ancient ruins of Tiwanaku lie in the Andean highland plains. It is an easy day trip that you can sign up for with multiple tour companies in La Paz. This powerful civilization flourished as a major urban and ceremonial capital between 500 and 1000 CE, serving as a grand architectural and cultural predecessor to the Inca Empire. The Tiwanaku people thrived on the harsh, high-altitude Andean plain by mastering ingenious farming techniques. They utilized a system of elevated agricultural platforms called sukakollos (raised fields) to grow hearty crops like quinoa and potatoes, successfully feeding a population of tens of thousands.
The Tiwanaku culture mastered step-pyramid temples and detailed stonework, best represented by the unique H-shaped blocks found throughout the neighboring Puma Punku site. It remains unclear exactly how these massive H-blocks were incorporated into the overall construction, but the precision of the engineering is absolutely amazing.
In addition to their agricultural feats, they built elaborate stone temples aligned with the sun and stars to honor their deities. Their remarkable artistic expression is preserved in towering monolithic stone statues—strikingly reminiscent of the famous Moai on Easter Island—as well as dozens of unique, intricately carved stone faces protruding from the walls of their Semi-Subterranean Temple.
The faces of these carvings bring a human element to the ruins.
Around 1000 to 1100 CE, the Tiwanaku civilization dissolved. While historians once thought they were simply absorbed by neighboring cultures, modern evidence strongly suggests that a catastrophic, generations-long regional drought dried up their vital farming canals and forced the population to abandon the city. Either way, these remarkable ruins stand as a testament to early urban planning, proving that their monumental engineering practices laid the literal foundations for the advancements of later Andean civilizations.
Our Greatest Takeaway
Bolivia is a place that captures your heart through its profound contrasts and effortless warmth, welcoming you not as a passing outsider but as an invited guest into its living history. It is a country where the raw, dramatic landscapes—from the painted, mineral-rich mountains of the altiplano to the vertigo-inducing cliffs of La Paz—stand alongside an explosion of human creativity and life. To travel here is to immerse yourself in a world saturated with the deep textures of Neo-Andean architecture, the brilliant hues of bustling street markets, the mystical items of the Witches' Market, and the comforting flavors of local foods. Bolivia doesn't just show you its sights; it envelops your senses entirely.
Beneath this sensory beauty lies the true soul of the nation: an enduring, independent spirit that bridges centuries-old traditions with modern resilience. Whether it is the pride of cholitas walking the streets in their traditional bowler hats or the sobering, hard-fought strength of the miners in Potosí, the indigenous culture did not merely survive colonization—it triumphed. Today, Bolivia moves forward into the future on its own terms, beautifully blending its revolutionary legacy with contemporary life. Leaving this remarkable country, you are left with a deep reverence for a people who honor the spirits of their ancestors while carving out a vibrant, resilient path in the modern world.
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