COLOMBIA
- dreamtravelreflect
- Aug 30
- 9 min read
Raw Nature and Vibrant Culture
Colombia always felt like an exotic place, anchored in raw wilderness and a tinge of danger. Popular culture and news in the United States have often focused on the drug trade and the guerilla groups of Colombia's past. Elements of those myths still exist, but our experience as ordinary tourists couldn’t have been further from those dangers. We felt safe at all times. The local people were friendly, and besides the occasional street performer in Cartagena, they were not pushy at all.
Our favorite experiences included strolling through the historic colonial streets of Cartagena, diving in the Rosario Islands, and marveling at the artistic and metallurgical advances of pre-Columbian tribes. We also loved exploring the raw jungle of La Macarena and climbing to the top of La Piedra del Peñol.
Across Colombia, we were deeply impressed by the respect for nature and the calculated steps taken to restore ecosystems. In the Rosario Islands, coral is being grown and replanted back into the reefs. Meanwhile, our lodge in La Macarena has been slowly acquiring farmland to replant native trees. This creates vital nature corridors for local animals to migrate across areas that were once fragmented. Because Colombia offers such a vast variety of activities, it truly has something for everyone, whether you are seeking physical adventure or rich history and culture. We spent two weeks in Colombia, highlighted by the locations below.
Logistics
Travel: We flew into Cartagena and departed from Medellín. The main anchor of our trip was our five-day lodge and hiking experience in Caño Cristales. Our flights to and from La Macarena all connected through Bogotá. To save time and cover long distances, we relied on domestic flights to travel between major cities.
Around Town: We used Uber to get around all the major cities. It was reliable and affordable. Taxis are also readily available. Agree to a price prior to entering the vehicle. You can find approximate prices with a simple internet search, or compare to an Uber cost. A few extra dollars here and there for convenience is worth it to us.
Money: Credit cards were accepted almost everywhere. However, we recommend having some Colombian Pesos (COP) on hand to tip guides and buy small items in rural areas like La Macarena. ATMs are readily available at airports and in large cities.
Cartagena
Originally inhabited by the Calamarí tribe, Cartagena was founded by the Spanish explorer Pedro de Heredia in 1533. It grew to be one of the Spanish Empire’s wealthiest ports in the Caribbean, exporting silver and gold from the interior of South America.
Today, the colonial old town is encompassed by a huge stone wall. The streets are colorful, with balconies, markets and lush vines, creating a vibrant energy. The area is designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
A great way to see the historic center is to walk along the perimeter walls. It is fun to see the colorful roof tops, balconies, and the sea on the outside of the wall. Stop at one of the cafes on top of the wall to grab a drink while the sun goes down.
Just outside the historic center of Cartagena is the Getsemaní district, which has a working-class and bohemian feel to it. Colorful flags and beautiful art adorn the narrow streets. Additionally, the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, located just outside the colonial center, was built on the Hill of San Lázaro in the mid-1600s. This strategic fortification overlooked the city and port to fend off British, French, and pirate groups looking to plunder goods coming out of South America.
The street art in the Getsemaní district is so colorful and captures the emotion of the area.
Castillo San Felipe de Barajas was built by African slaves that were brought by the Spanish to Cartagena. The angular structure follows the natural terrain of the hillside, cannons are located along each of the bastions, and a series of underground tunnels connected all the fighting positions within the complex.
Rosario Islands
About 45 minutes west of Cartagena lies the Rosario Islands, an archipelago of small coral islands. This area has become a premier hub for scuba diving and snorkeling in Colombia’s Caribbean Sea. Beautiful fish, sponges, and corals carpet the seafloor and walls, including:
• Brain coral
• Elkhorn coral
• Elephant ear coral
• Giant barrel sponges
• Porcupinefish
• Lobster
• Creole wrasse
We did a two-dive experience that departed from Cartagena. The dive company transported us to the islands, outfitted us with all our gear, and led us on two different boat-entry dives. We then had time to explore the islands and eat lunch before returning to Cartagena after a full day. For those looking for an extended beach experience, you can also stay overnight at various hotels and lodges scattered across the islands.
Diving along Gloria Reef and Martin Sito Reef.
Bogotá
Perched within the Andes mountains, Bogotá sits at an elevation of 8,660 feet (2,640 meters) and is the capital of Colombia. It was the epicenter for political independence of northern South America from the Spanish and in the modern era the center for Colombian social movements.
At an elevation of 8,660 feet (2,640 meters), Bogotá is the third highest capital in the world.
We started our visit to Bogotá by climbing up Monserrate Mountain with a funicular to visit the Basilica of Monserrate and to see the city spread out below us. Heading back down into the city, we had fun exploring the areas around Plaza de Bolívar, including the cathedral.
Basilica of Monserrate overlooks the city below.
Bogotá was originally the home to the Muisca civilization, who were experts in agriculture, emerald mining, and goldsmithing. They had an elaborate ceremony of crowning their new leader with golden dust and offering golden treasures to the sun god Sué. The leader would take a golden raft into the center of nearby Lake Guatavita and would cast golden treasures as an offering. This caught the attention of the Spanish in 1538, and their search for the mythical golden city of El Dorado was formed.
The Gold Museum is a great way to see this golden art on display and to learn about the incredible technology that these pre-Columbian civilizations employed. Don’t miss seeing the Muisca Raft, which is an intricate piece of art that demonstrates the ceremony to Sué.
The pre-Columbian Muisca Raft (center) depicts the sacred ritual that inspired the legendary Spanish search for El Dorado.
La Macarena
I don’t remember when, but at some point, I saw a picture of cotton-candy-pink aquatic plants called Macarenia clavigera in Caño Cristales. I remember putting a pin on my Google Maps and telling myself that we would go there someday.
We splurged and stayed in a jungle lodge along the Guayabero River in La Macarena. This area is unique because it merges the Andes Mountains, the Orinoco Basin, and the thick jungle of the Amazon Rainforest.
Our lodge was set in the middle of the jungle, we could hear birds, monkeys, and all the sounds of the forrest.
Each day, we would take a boat from our lodge to a different location within Serranía de la Macarena National Park to hike around 5 miles through savanna and thick jungle, exploring the breathtaking trails of the Caño Cristales river system. It was absolutely beautiful to see the 'River of Five Colors' and the vibrant, rare plants that only grow in that specific part of the world.
Leaving La Macarena, I had mixed emotions as we rode on the river boat to the village. Part of me was excited to be going to civilization again, where there would be air conditioning, a hairdryer, and our clothes would not feel persistently damp. Our bodies are not adapted to the equatorial climate like the locals. The other part of me felt unsettled, like I was leaving some mystical land far away from modern society, one which has been preserved by the remoteness and magic of the forest. I will miss the sounds of birds and howler monkeys echoing through the tree canopy. I will miss the contentment of recognizing faces among our boat drivers, tuk-tuk drivers, and our knowledgeable guides. It reminded me that in a small village, you quickly start to recognize people, and that there are still places in this world removed from the stressors of our fast-paced life.
Medellín - A Tale of Two Comunas
Medellín was a city of contrasts for us. On one side, you find areas of great affluence, beautiful architecture, expensive cars, and high-end malls. On the other side, there are incredibly dense hillsides where homes are built right on top of each other, powered by vibrant local markets and a fierce sense of resilience. During our trip, we experienced both ends of this spectrum—and it was a perfect lesson on how successful urban spaces are developed.
Do Not Miss
Botero - One of Colombia’s best-known 20th-century artists is Fernando Botero, who was born in Medellín. A fun way to see an abundance of his rotund sculptures is to head to Plaza Botero in the Historic Center. His art is famous for taking common scenes of human and animal life and exaggerating them into large, voluptuous forms.
The Chill Vibes of El Poblado & Ciclovía
We based ourselves in El Poblado, an upscale neighborhood famous for its modern architecture, lush greenery, and wide, tree-lined streets.
Our favorite memory here happened purely by chance. Waking up on a Sunday morning, we walked outside to find Ciclovía in full swing along Avenida El Poblado. Every single Sunday, the city shuts down one side of this major main street to vehicles, handing it over to joggers, cyclists, and families strolling together.
It is an incredible initiative designed to get people active and connected. The entire avenue transforms into a festival, lined with food vendors, local artisans, and street musicians. After wandering through the crowds, we stopped for a fantastic brunch near a shaded park.
The Ciclovía takes place on Sundays along Avenida El Poblado.
Seeing the pure simplicity of people enjoying their neighborhood reminded me that no matter where we are in the world, human desires are universal: we all want a sense of community, a connection to nature, and a moment to slow down in a busy world.
The Resilience & Color of Comuna 13
For a completely different perspective, we took an Uber to Comuna 13. Once notorious as one of the most dangerous neighborhoods in the world, it has undergone an amazing transformation.
Between the 1980s and early 2000s, thousands of displaced farmers fled the rural coca trade and settled on these steep hillsides. Because of its isolated geography, the hilltop quickly became a strategic stronghold for guerrilla groups and drug cartels. However, after a series of intense military operations, the Colombian government ousted the major crime cartels.
But the real catalyst for change came from the residents themselves. Frustrated by decades of violence, locals reclaimed their streets through:
• Vibrant street art telling the history of their struggle
• High-energy breakdancing and hip-hop culture
• Local craft stalls and street food
A major turning point for the neighborhood's infrastructure was the installation of outdoor escalators. This massive project connected the isolated hillside directly to Medellín's metro transit system, completely changing the daily lives of residents. Today, Comuna 13 is a bustling, lively community and a global symbol of social and urban renewal.
Street art not only makes Comuna 13 a colorful neighborhood, but also tells the history of the community.
We truly loved both of these experiences. They showed us that when a city and its people invest in their neighborhoods, public spaces can be transformed into something safe, joyful, and deeply meaningful.
La Piedra del Peñol and Guatapé
Looming 220 meters above ground, La Piedra del Peñol is one of the largest monolithic rocks in the world. Two-thirds of the solid stone actually sits beneath the ground. We climbed over 700 steps to the very top, which provided amazing 360 degree views of the lake and surrounding hillsides. The lake was created in the 1970s when the government dammed the Nare River. Causing the relocation of several communities on the valley floor. Today the hydroelectric dam provides a significant portion of Colombia’s entire power supply.
La Piedra del Peñol stands out along the horizon as the highest point in the area.
Guatapé is a vibrant kaleidoscope of colors and patterns. The community square, homes, and businesses depict colorful scenes of farming life, flowers, and animals using three-dimensional architectural tiles called zócalos. The Spanish arrived in the 1500s in search of gold. They found none in the surrounding hills—sparing the community from becoming a major colonial trade hub. The town was officially founded in 1811, and the urban layout and architecture still reflect Spanish influence through the gridded cobbled streets, central square, protruding balconies, and red-tile roofs
Around every corner in Guatapé there are colorful scenes that make you want to keep wandering further into the town.
Our Greatest Takeaway
Colombia is a massive, diverse country. If we had more time, I would’ve loved to head down to the coffee region of Salento to see the towering wax palm trees of the Cocora Valley and to taste more of Colombia’s finest exports right from the source. We really enjoyed learning about the complex history of Colombia and experiencing the incredible variety of art in all the communities we visited. Ultimately, our time here showed us that Colombia is no longer defined by its past, but by its vibrant, creative, and welcoming future.
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